MY LOAF AFFAIR

In the words of my friend Paolo Vasquez, we’ll discuss how his passion for this special bread began and provide you readers with a brief guide on how to embark on your own sourdough-making journey.

ABOUT THE PROCESS

I got curious after reading a book called Cooked by Michael Pollan. I think that was in 2013 or so. He described it as something bordering on magical, how three very basic ingredients can become something truly delicious. That day, I went on Amazon and got my Lodge Combo Cooker/Dutch oven and haven’t looked back. 

There are many fun moments in the process, from the pre-shaping to the final shaping, but I have to say that nothing beats uncovering the Dutch oven to reveal the fully developed and risen loaf. That thrill never gets old.

The weather poses a challenge for many bakers. In the Philippines, the summers are hot and humid, causing the dough to develop much more quickly. Another hurdle is getting the timing just right, especially while juggling work and being a dad. I have to wake up really early to ensure that the dough develops according to a schedule that fits my day.

I feed my sourdough starter daily, and I set a reminder on my iPhone in the afternoon to ensure it’s properly taken care of.

ABOUT THE RECIPE

The recipe I use is about 80% similar to Chad Robertson’s country loaf recipe from Tartine Bread. I’ve adapted it for the tropical weather, but it remains quite similar. During my visit to San Francisco in 2023, I stopped by the Guerrero location to pick up some loaves, and I’m happy to say they were comparable!

I prefer the high-hydration method; it’s easier on my equipment and produces a beautiful crumb!

I use a blend of locally milled flours. The wheat berries are imported from the States but are milled locally to ensure freshness.

The fermentation lasts three hours at room temperature, followed by another 15 to 18 hours at 2°C, so it ferments overnight. Baking takes place the next morning.

ABOUT THE FLAVOR

It’s all about the texture and the “air” for me. I don’t like a very tight crumb; I enjoy the mouthfeel of a more open, airy texture. The acidity can be controlled during the process, and I’m fine with an acidic loaf. You can make it so that it doesn’t taste sour at all, but I prefer one that isn’t shy about its sourness.

The texture is directly influenced by the hydration level and the baker’s techniques to promote gluten development, such as stretches and folds. Flavor, on the other hand, comes down to the fermentation process. I prefer a long cold fermentation, as it introduces more complex flavors beyond just sourness.

For my country loaf, I don’t add any ingredients beyond flour, water, and salt. However, I also make a jalapeño cheddar loaf for personal consumption, and it’s incredibly delicious. I can easily eat half a loaf in one sitting!

ABOUT THE EQUIPMENT

The banneton and the Dutch oven make a significant difference in the final appearance of the loaf. The banneton provides the shape, which is especially important for high-hydration dough, as all that water can lead to a saggy texture. Meanwhile, the Dutch oven allows the steam to work its magic, resulting in lovely blisters on the crust. Many baking mistakes can be forgiven with a Dutch oven; you can mess up quite a bit, and it still seems to bake the loaf perfectly.

In case it isn’t obvious by now, the Dutch Oven is king! 

Open baking (without a Dutch oven), which is the most conventional method, is extremely troublesome for me. My loaves never seem to bake correctly using that technique, no matter what I try. After multiple attempts and countless lopsided loaves, I decided to stick with the Dutch oven.

ABOUT THE BAKER

Paolo is a friend based in Manila, Philippines, who shares my affinity for bread, particularly sourdough. What started as a hobby has evolved into a home-based business selling sourdough country loaves. Made lovingly with quality ingredients, these loaves are a testament to how one’s passion can transform into something greater than expected. Paolo followed his heart— or should I say his tummy—and has never looked back since.

WHY SOURDOUGH IS SUPREME

Beyond its delightful taste and satisfying texture, sourdough bread offers a host of health benefits. The natural fermentation process breaks down complex carbohydrates, making them easier to digest—perfect for sensitive tummies! Additionally, sourdough contains beneficial bacteria that can improve gut health (and at this age, gut health is wealth!). So, as we savor the flavors of Sourdough September, let’s appreciate not only its culinary excellence but also its nutritional value. This humble loaf is more than just food; it’s a testament to the power of tradition, taste, and health. Truly, for me, bread IS life.